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London called once more

Last week, the Great British Beer Festival (GBBF) was held in London’s Kensington Olympia. This was my fifth consecutive GBBF. It’s not quite the exploits of Michael Phelps and Steve Redgrave but it still makes me smile. It has become firmly an annual jaunt over to London.

GBBF 2016 had a slightly different feel to it over previous years. It seemed as there were one or two fewer brewery bars. Some big brewers like Shephard Neame relegated its sole beer (Spitfire) at the festival to a shared bar, which in the grand scheme of things is no big loss. The festival certainly had a more corporate feel to it, if by corporate one means organised. It felt more spacious than previous years. This is more space on top of what is already the cavernous environment that is the Kensington Olympia venue. There was a big push by CAMRA to sign up new members. Some had the air of chuggers about them, keen to push the £20 Wetherspoon vouchers above all else. Corporate hospitality featured also with groups given guided tours, tastings etc. This is becoming the norm it seems at large festivals these days.

The organisers managed to invoke the ire of many a beer geek, who are known for their carefree attitude, by moving the announcement of the Champion Beer of Britain from the event itself to a separate awards dinner. This didn’t go down well at the festival and contributed to a fairly muted atmosphere during the afternoon of the trade day. However, many a beer writer quickly jettisoned his/her umbrage as the American Cask Bar opened around that time.

The presence of international beers at GBBF is always contentious. Yes it’s sad to see so many beer people crowded around the American beer bar. Then again the U.S. Brewer’s Association put in a lot of work to make sure the beers present are interesting, eclectic and first-rate. What’s more is that they pay tribute (except for the international bottle bar) to cask ale. They also throw in appearances by brewers or others connected with the breweries. It’s no wonder this bar’s popularity will continue, they put in a serious effort to make it exciting. Unfortunately, two Vermont breweries were due to be there but their beers missed the shipping deadline. For the record, the U.S. beers I tried were Ziggy Stardust (Boulder Beer Co.), Daydream IPA (Santiam Brewing); Hop Hunter IPA (Sierra Nevada); and Spruce Tip Session Ale (Urban Farm Fermentory).

Anyway back to the Champion Beer of Britain. I was expecting some ardent CAMRA folk to have picketed the dinner. Did it happen? I don’t know but then again coverage of the actual awards dinner on twitter was poor. There seemed to be only two people tweeting from the event. I was keeping an eye on proceedings more out of curiosity to see if any of the beers I had tried during the first day made the final three.

As luck would have it, my brother Eoin had a pint of Binghams Vanilla Stout in front of him. It was his beer for the road. That was probably the last pint of it (or close to it) sold at the festival during the rest of the week – the Supreme Champion Beer of Britain being limited to third or half-pint pours. Thankfully, I had tried it earlier because it would’ve made the brother’s smugness all the more unbearable. The beer was smooth, silky with a pleasant vanilla hit – reminiscent of a quality chocolate truffle. Whilst there was a hint of sweetness in it, the vanilla didn’t overpower the character of this beer. It was well-balanced and drinkable.

This year’s three overall medallists would be even more enjoyable when the weather gets colder. It was also the first time a speciality beer won the overall prize and no doubt will be an answer in many a future CAMRA themed table quiz. There was obviously a preference amongst the judges for darker beers this year. Snow Top by Old Dairy, a 6% abv (plenty of spice, winter fruits on the nose, warming and toasty) took silver and Tring’s Death or Glory, a 7.2% abv barley wine (not overly sweet, dark fruits, marmalade, and spice) taking home the bronze.

There were some excellent stouts and porters on offer. Particular highlights for me were Crafty Stoat (Wibblers); Old Growler (Nethergate); Boss Black (Boss); Lambeth Walk (By the Horns); and Parabellum Milk Stout (Gun); Triple Chocoholic (Saltaire); and Chocolate Marble (Marble). Speaking of Marble, I enjoyed its lemony Earl Grey IPA and thought Lagonda IPA deserved better than bronze in the golden ale category. Other pale and IPAs worth a shout out include Nova (Bristol Beer Factory); Nor’ Hop (Moor Beer); Revelation (Dark Star); Magus (Durham); 77 (Heavy Industry); and Gyle 1500 (Flowerpots), although it’s billed as a red ale, given its hop profile it can pass somewhat as a red IPA. In case you’re wondering, no I did not forget to sample some mild and yes, I did try Fullers annual Vintage release. The 2016 version had plenty of the expectant vinuous notes, it could do with a bit more ageing.

A nice touch at the festival was to be found just inside the front door. Too often London breweries were underrepresented at the festival. This was a shame because there’s some amazing things happening in the city’s local beer scene. London Beer City grew up in and around GBBF and some might say, in response to it. London is definitely a front line in the craft versus real ale battle. Thankfully, the Real Ale in a Bottle bar returned to GBBF this year with offerings (all bottle conditioned) from Kernel, Redemption, Orbit, Partizan and others. Giving myself a break from the cask offerings, I enjoyed Weird Beard’s Saison 14. It hit all the right notes, with plenty of esters and leather in the flavour. The carbonation levels were spot on and set me up nicely for more beer tasting. I must say that Weird Beard is certainly a brewery that’s getting better both in terms of quality and consistency.

Earlier I mentioned that there seemed to be fewer brewery bars at the festival. There was an especially welcome new one. Tiny Rebel has gone from strength to strength since winning the Supreme Champion Beer of Britain accolade last year for Cwtch (still tasting great). Of course, they made a name for themselves well before winning the title but the brewery appears to have stepped up a gear.

The brewery was out in force at the festival and besides the likes of Fubar and Hadouken, it had Hank, a wonderful session pale ale and Juicy, which as its name suggests was a vibrant fruity all-rounder. As you probably guessed, I spent a fair bit of time at the Tiny Rebel bar, enjoying those beers mentioned, along with their black IPA Loki. It pleasantly avoided even the slightest hints of dark roast and opting to focus on bitter citrus notes. Finally, I could not but try Stay Puft, a 5.2% marshmallow stout. I was a little uncertain of this beer when I first tried it and on the second day, I bit the bullet and tried it again. I admit that this beer grew on me. It wasn’t overly sweet even though that’s fear elicited by its name and description. The best description would be of a thick and creamy milk(shake) stout. Interesting and was worth having a pint of it.

All in all, it was a good festival. More could be done to improve it. There was a lack of atmosphere on the first day that continued into the afternoon of the second day. The venue’s cavernous and could do with a bit of music. Perhaps various buskers dotted around the venue, not just on the stage. The food offering was the best yet. Talk already started of next year’s trip to GBBF 2017.

First, I have the Irish Craft Beer Festival to look forward to. It returns to the RDS on 8th to 10th September. Tickets, opening times and event information can be found here: http://www.irishcraftbeerfestival.ie/

Brews International, Festivals

77, Boss, Boss Black, Boulder Beer Co., Bristol Beer Factory, By the Horns, CAMRA, Champion Beer of Britain, Champion Beers of Britain, Chocolate Marble, Crafty Stoat, Cwtch, Dark Star, Daydream IPA, Death or Glory, Durham, Earl Grey IPA, Flowerpots, Fubar, Fullers, Fullers Vintage 2016, GBBF, Great British Beer Festival, Gun, Gyle 1500, Hadouken, Hank, Heavy Industry, Hop Hunter, Irish Craft Beer Festival, Juicy, Kernel, Lagonda IPA, Lambeth Walk, Loki, Magus, Marble, Moor Beer, Nethergate, Nova, Old Dairy, Old Growler, Orbit, Parabellum Milk Stout, Partizan, redemption, Revelation, Saison 14, Saltaire, Santiam Brewing, Shepherd Neame, Sierra Nevada, Snow Top, Spitfire, Spruce Tip Session Ale, Stay Puft, Supreme Champion Beer of Britain, Tiny Rebel, Tring, Triple Chocoholic, Urban Farm Fermentory, Weird Beard, Wibblers, Ziggy Stardust

Plans to limit the number of off-licences in Dublin City

The new Dublin City Council Development Plan (2016-2022) will be finalised in September this year. Drafting the plan offers local councillors the opportunity to make significant decisions on the future direction of the city. Unfortunately, for some it is simply an opportunity to pander to nimbyism as well as trying to force through illogical measures.

Forget the fact that many existing buildings wouldn’t get planning permission under the proposed amendments to the plan. One particular area of concern is the following proposal to be a stated objective of Dublin City:

“To prohibit the further expansion of off-licences or part off-licences unless a compelling case can be made that there is not an over-concentration of such uses in any one area. In this respect, any application for an off-licence/part off-licence should include a map of all such establishments located within a 1km radius of the proposed development. In relation to stand alone off-licences an audit of the existing off-licence floorspace provision within 1km and an analysis of the need for the proposal in the locality shall be provided”.

This is a serious additional layer of restrictions on what is an already heavily regulated retail activity. This move is separate to the restrictions proposed in the Public Health (Alcohol) Bill. It could prevent new outlets opening or existing retail locations branching into off-premise alcohol sales. It is a one-size-fits-all approach that ignores local employment, the specialist nature of products sold and changing consumer patterns. It shouldn’t be seen as the panacea for tackling public drunkenness and anti-social behaviour.

It is contrary to the stated ambition in the draft development plan to “actively promote and protect the range of specialist shops within the inner city, which contribute to the character and attractiveness of the city as a destination for shopping”. Imagine specialist whiskey, wine or beer shops being prevented from opening because there’s a generic off-licence somewhere within a kilometre of their proposed location. At the very least if the proposal remains, it would add significantly to the high costs of applying to open a shop.

Craft beer has been gaining a significant foothold in the likes of Spar, Centra and smaller Tesco stores. This proposal could limit stores such as these moving into off-sales, if they aren’t already selling alcohol. It also could limit new stores opening and offering alcohol sales. They already have to cease sales by 10pm and can be prevented from sales at the discretion of the Guards.

This proposal is not based on empirical evidence or regulatory logic. Why not let the market decide on this one? Off-licences are a source of employment, collect considerable duties and VAT for the State and would pay commercial rates to the council. Many are supporters of independent craft producers, providing them with a sales channel for their products and an important alternative to pubs.

Brews International

2016-2022, Dublin, Dublin City Development Plan, Off-licence

G’Knight on the Fourth of July

Fourth of July for Americans is a BIG deal. Understandably so. I’ve been lucky to have been in the US for a few Independence Day celebrations. It’s barbecue, outdoors and fireworks. Hot dogs feature more prominently than beer. There’s even a nationally televised hot dog eating competition broadcast live from Coney Island, New York. Today’s winner apparently polished off 70 in the allotted ten minutes.

Of course many bottles and cans of Sam Adams or Yuengling will be downed today. Beers marking the festivities or ‘Murica more generally will be popular today. Even Budweiser has been renamed America for the summer (more on that another time).

Oskar Blues G'Knight — Forget the red solo cup, Oskar Blues made drinking from a can cool again

Needless to say IPAs will be drunk in commemoration of an American triumph over a British style. Is there a better or more symbolic way for a craft beer drinker to mark the 4th?

Americans don’t just like things big, they like them bigger. So why not turn to an imperial red IPA from Colorado’s Oskar Blues. At 8.7% abv, G’Knight demonstrates significant home-grown American heft. It’s name captures that the events 240 years ago when the 13 original states said goodnight and good luck to George III’s “repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute Tyranny over these States”.

The beer pours a clear, burnt orange and rusted copper colour. There’s plenty of thyme and other herbs alongside pine on the nose. With IPAs these days all focuses on trying to extract as much fresh fruit aromas, it is almost somewhat pleasing to revert to the old-school pine notes. This beer is all about full-on bitterness and flavour.

It finishes dry, spicy and herbal. It’s chewy too, at times a little astringent. The warming alcohol notes suggest that this beer would be better enjoyed at this time of year in doors with the a/c cranked up, except if like me you’re enjoying the changeable Irish summer.

There’s sweetness in this beer and believe me you subconsciously go searching for it. You need something to cut through the bitterness. It’ll be hard to drink anything after this as your palate would be destroyed. Then again, a BIG BEER is appropriate for the day that’s in it.

Brews International

Flower over-powered

The term “flower power” immediately conjures up images of hippies, psychedelic drugs, music and VW Westfalia camper vans. It’s over-used these days and is a tad unoriginal for a beer name. Ratebeer.com currently lists 33 beers having this name). New York’s Ithaca Beer Company perhaps can lay a partial, legitimate claim to the name, being only a short 8 hour drive from Woodstock.

I recently tried a pint of Flower Power (7.5% abv) in New York City. Its appearance was orange mist and gold. The nose was of fresh pine, not a hint of floral or fruit notes. The body was a little thin and appeared intentionally to amp up the bitterness. Lightly carbonated and bitter on tasting – nothing else. The mouthfeel was chewy with unwelcome notes of plastic. It gave way to a pure, spicy bitter finish.

I’ve certainly had better IPAs but I’m not sure that this was even the best representation of this beer. Usually, I prefer judging beers from bottles or cans because you’re also at the mercy of the bar, pub or restaurant storing and serving the beer correctly. Might this be one of those occasions? I don’t know but it’s possible. For example, I couldn’t detect the use of simcoe, citra and amarillo notes but plenty of “c” hops.

If I see a bottle of this beer floating about, I’d be tempted try it again. As it is, the beer I tried was so aggressive that Bob Dylan could pen a protest tune about it.

Reviews

Which road, which beer?

I’m a reader. I stick to non-fiction over fiction and this probably explains why I chose to study history in college. Books on beer are a popular preference but I read it all – politics, business, history, various biographies and the like.

When travelling, I usually duck into the bookshop at the airport or train station to buy the paper and the occasional longer read. The range of nonfiction books is limited and with the exception of the latest releases, they rarely change. I don’t know who puts the range together but there’s always a heavy emphasis on motivation and self-help. This indicates that the modern traveller needs all the help they can get. One book regularly features – The Road Less Travelled by M. Scott Peck.

This particular book has influenced a lot of those motivational posters and countless more PowerPoint slides used in business training seminars. They all seem to focus on a fork in the road leading to choices having to be made. Thankfully for a few people in Stratford, Connecticut this meant taking the leap and opening a brewery four years ago. They went one further and actually named the brewery after this principle – Two Roads Brewing Company.

Recently, I got to try their Worker’s Comp Saison. First of all, this is a great name for a beer named in honour of the saisonaires. It may be a saison but it’s not a seasonal offering. This style is quickly replacing wheat beers as a year-round staple of US craft breweries.

The beer’s appearance was of a late-summer sun haze. For the aroma, think big, funky farmyard aromatics along with fruity esters. The fruit aromas were a complex blend ranging from an expectant lemon citrus right through to more exotic, topical notes. This beer is peppery carbonated tartness in a glass. There’s a bitter lemon twist to this beer. There’s a big dry, peppery finish to this beer. It’s almost as if you’d lightly seasoned your tongue.

The flavours and other characteristics of the style are wonderfully pronounced. At only 4.8% abv, this is a wonderful session beer. I had no regrets in selecting this beer from a few other local offerings and other high profile but hard-to-get beers on this side of the Atlantic. I was my own “road less travelled” moment I suppose. My only regret is that I only had time for one.

Reviews

Connecticut, M. Scott Peck, saison, saisonaires, Stratford, The Road Less Travelled, Two Roads Brewing Company